At first glance, Oritoha – Lees Leaves - seems an unlikely destination for ambitious gastronomy. Located in the Tsugaru region of northern Aomori Prefecture, far from Japan’s established culinary centres, the restaurant is deeply rooted in a region known for its remote landscapes, long winters and distinctive cultural identity. Chef Junya Fujita has chosen to make Tsugaru the sole focus of his cuisine. Still in his early thirties, he is gaining recognition among Japanese culinary professionals for his highly personal approach. His cooking is built primarily around locally grown vegetables, complemented by wild plants, herbs and seasonal ingredients gathered from the surrounding landscape. He openly acknowledges his admiration for Chef Kanji Kobayashi of Villa Aida, particularly for his vegetable-focused philosophy. At Oritoha, vegetables are much more than a sustainable alternative to animal products. They are the chef’s principal way of expressing the character of Tsugaru – its landscape, seasons and culinary traditions. The dishes are personal and sometimes unexpected, with a refined understanding of flavour, texture and place. Oritoha is not yet a fully pure plant restaurant. Marine products can appear in stocks and seasonings, and a meat course is often served towards the end of the menu. Nevertheless, the restaurant offers a compelling perspective on vegetable-led cuisine: a young chef using vegetables, wild plants, tea and local ingredients to tell the story of an entire region.
